6am. I am woken up by the noise of horns. I have barely had two hours of sleep. Drivers stuck at junctions keep honking their horns as they try to squeeze in somewhere. The traffic is clogged with rickshaws overloaded with goods and cars.

I watch passers-by zigzag between the cars trying not to get run over. Rickshaws race against dusty bicycles and cars on a broken road. Monkeys and cows are also making their way along the road. Everything is different here.

I sit down on the bed -well, I try- before lying down again. My thighs and stomach are so sore that just sitting down is painful. I think I'll stay on the bed for now. I thought I was used to spending the night with Gabrielo, but it seems that I am not.

Noises coming from the bathroom catch my attention. It's clear that Gabo is not on the bed. He comes out of the bathroom with a towel around his waist.

- Already awake? he says surprised. I thought you wanted to sleep.

- Correction. I do need to sleep. It's just too noisy for that to be possible, that's all.

- Poor thing," he exclaims as he approaches. Do you want to carry on with what we did last night? I have plenty of time if it's for you.

- No! I'm so sore that even sitting down is painful.

- When I said you should start exercising again," he replied.

- Leave me alone. I'm in great shape. I don't need to go and sweat my ass off to make sure of that.

He plants a kiss on my forehead before carrying me in his arms.

- Gabrielo, no. Put me down. I'm really sore all over.

He puts me down slowly and I stand up as best I can. I move forward to take a step but my legs give way under the effort. Gabrielo barely catches me and puts me back to bed.

- It looks like we'll be here all day.

- No, why? I asked in disappointment.

- You're in pain. I can see it in your face. Besides, you're not going to get very far like this. Just rest. We've got three more weeks here.

I nod my head miserably. It's not like I'm going to convince him. I don't even have the strength to argue. I might as well sleep and rest for now. Besides, since he mentioned it, I really don't feel well. I've been feeling a migraine coming on since a while ago and the fatigue isn't helping.

Gabrielo gets back into bed with me and takes me in his arms. I rest my head against his chest and listen to his breathing. Somehow I already feel better. I'm sure that after a good nap I can go out and try some new Indian food.

__________

Well, it looks like one nap wasn't enough. Two days. That's how long it took me to recover. Two days spent in the haveli without being able to go out, or move around as I pleased because Mister thought I should rest.

Today we are going to walk around the streets of Old Delhi and the bazaars of the city. Since I am feeling better, I might as well enjoy it. Nothing like fresh air and good food to celebrate.

- Gabo, hurry up. Come on!

- I'm coming," he said, quickening his pace. You should slow down and avoid running like that. You'll end up with heatstroke.

- You always worry too much! I'll be fine.

Chandni Chowk is the main thoroughfare of Old Delhi, the oldest and largest of the city's bazaars. The alleys are packed with stalls full of various goods as well as cows, pigs and rickshaws. I lead the way through the bazaar and Gabrielo follows me without question. We walk hand in hand without stopping.

- Alma, where are we going? We've been walking for a while.

- Have we? Do you think so," I asked, avoiding his gaze.

- Do you have any idea where we are?

- Not at all, but as they say, 'it's by getting lost that one truly discovers the country'.

- Nobody says that, Stellina.

- That's all right. I want to see people today.

That's how I made my first friend in India. She showed us the way and made friends with us. So Mayra stayed with us all afternoon and we even had lunch at Karim's. This restaurant is opposite to the school. This restaurant is opposite the mosque and has been run by the same family for four generations.

It is even reputed to be the best Muslim table in the city. After tasting the food served here, I can see why.

- You should go out during Holi," exclaims Mayra.

- Holi? I asked. What is Holi?

- It is a Hindu religious festival, which marks the end of winter and the beginning of spring. During Holi, everyone throws coloured powders and water on each other.

As I understand it, Holi has its origin in Hindu mythology. Legend has it that King Hiranyakashipu ruled as a despot, stirring up trouble around him. Proud and arrogant, he demanded that everyone prostrate themselves at his feet. Unfortunately for him, his own son Prahlad preferred the god Vishnull.

Hiranyakashipu wanted to get rid of his son. He tried several times to kill him, but in vain. He then asked for help from his sister Holika, who had the unique gift of not being afraid of fire. The king challenged his son to lie down in the flames with his aunt.

Prahlad accepted and triumphed. Holika was punished for her vanity while Prahlad was saved and rewarded by the gods for his faithfulness and devotion. From this story, Holi is said to have originated as a symbol of the victory of good over evil, fertility and the arrival of spring.

- On the eve of the festival, huge bonfires are lit throughout the city. They celebrate the cremation of Holika, sister of King Hiranyakashipu, and symbolise the destruction of evil. The coals are then collected by the inhabitants who take them home and use them to light a new fire.

- Sounds amazing! I can't wait to get there.

- Be careful what you wear. The mixture of powder and water makes a kind of indelible mud. It's hard to remove your clothes after Holi, believe me! Laughs Mayra.

- Don't worry! We'll be dressed properly, won't we Gabo?He nods and smiles.

- I'm not worried. It's just that the main targets are women and tourists. The party is in a fortnight.

- It'll be before we leave," I said.

- The day before we leave, so we should take advantage of it," replied Gabo.

- I'll see you lovebirds later ! Alma has my number. Sleep well and don't make too many children!

I feel my face turn bright red. Gabrielo laughs at my reaction and takes my hand.

- Let's go home, it's getting late.