《Rough Waves》Chapter 21
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I wake to the sounds of heavy rain and strong winds and for a second I feel all relaxed and snug in bed while the weather rages outside. That is until I notice my mum still asleep next to me and then all the horrible events of last night come flooding back.
I start to feel overwhelmed again, so I jump out of bed and walk around the house before I can freak out like last night. I take my mum's advice and keep taking deep breaths. The house is dark and dreary due to the storm and I have no idea what the time is.
I take a look at the clock on the microwave and see it's only 8.10am. I would normally be getting ready for school now as it's Friday morning. The thought of school starts to freak me out again, I try taking deep breaths again but it's getting harder and harder to keep the overwhelming feelings at bay.
I need to get out of the house, I need fresh air! I look out the window and notice the rain is a lot lighter. It's still very windy, but it's nothing can't handle. I peak into my room to see mum still asleep, I should wake her but I know she'll try to stop me from going out in this weather and I just can't stay here any longer without losing the plot!
I still have my togs on under my singlet and shorts from yesterday, but I dont care so I just leave them on and grab my jacket from the hook on the wall next to the front door. When I step outside I inspect my surroundings, pull my hood up, keep it in place with one hand and start walking.
I'm instantly bombarded by the wind but I push through it and keep going. I keep my head down and hide my face from the falling rain which seems to be getting harder again. I look up to see where I am, I'm outside Hunter's house. The lights are on and I can see movement through the windows.
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There's no way I can face going in there but I need to get out of this rain that's only getting harder and harder. Then I remember the old surf shed by the beach gate. I make a mad dash down the side of the house and across the back lawn, hoping no one notices me.
Once inside I slam the door behind me and pull my hood off my head. I've never been more grateful for the fact that they never keep this place locked, even though there are waxing supplies and a couple of old boards Hunter and the girls used to use that are stored in here.
As I look around I start to think of all the memories I have from this little shed. The first time Hunter brought me in here to help wax his board, after that he would let me do mine in here as well. Then the time he accidentally locked Zoe in here when she was playing under the table, which in turn led to the reason why it's not locked now.
The hundreds of laughs we've shared, the hundreds of times we teased each other, the hundreds of innocent hugs and cuddles. Then the one big moment that changed everything! I close my eyes and remember that day like it was yesterday. The weather was a little like this, cold, windy and rainy.
We were so close, the way he looked at me was so intense, his soft thumb running along my lip. I really thought he was going to kiss me at that moment, then horrible Emily had to go and ruin it all by calling his phone. Then a few minutes later all I felt was anger and humiliation.
But now I've gone and lost him forever! I let the tears run free again, I feel like all I do is cry these days. How did life become such a mess, I'm only seventeen but it feels like my whole world is crashing down around me. The thought of losing Hunter terrifies me and I don't care if he's just a friend, I need him in my life!
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My heart is starting to race again before I totally freak out I throw off my jacket, grab one of the old surfboards and head out the door. The rain has eased again and before I can think too much about what a stupid idea this is I run down to the beach.
The swell is really big, bigger than anything I've surfed before but I'm confident I can ride these massive waves, I have been surfing since I was five after all.
I decide to leave my clothes on (they shouldn't bother me) and jump in the water.
Fuck! It's freezing!
Its a bit of a shock to my system but I can handle it, I've surfed in colder, although normally in a wetsuit.
I paddle out carefully, the waves are crashing at a crazy pace and as soon as I come up for air I have to dive under the next. I finally make it beyond the break and take a moment to catch my breath. I'm still trying to decide if this the most exhilarating or stupidest thing I've ever done, when I see the next wave coming at me.
It's big, real big!
I'm gonna do it! If I can pull this off, I will be an absolute legend.
I turn and paddle as fast as I can trying to keep up with the wave. I'm doing great! That is until I decide to stand up. I'm such an idiot, when was the last time this board was even waxed? I didn't even think to look.
As soon as I try to maneuver the board it slips out from under me and shoots into the air. Time slows down and I start to realise this is the dumbest thing I've ever done.
I smash into the wave that's still breaking, the board follows just missing my shoulder. Then I find myself going round and round like in a washing machine, I'm struggling to get to the surface, hell, I'm not even sure which way the surface is!
The longer I struggle, the more frantic I get. Is this it? Then seconds later I finally break the surface, I gasp for air and manage a couple of breaths before another rush of water hits me. Just as I'm about the break the surface again I feel something hard hit the back of my head, pain surges through my whole body. I try my hardest to fight the numb feeling that's taking over from the pain, but then everything goes black and silent.
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